Chinese Wok Express

One of the most reliably tasty and imminently affordable places in Columbia is Chinese Wok Express. It looks dingy from the outside and not much better in (the owner of another one of Columbia's Asian restaurants loves the food at CWE but claims to eat there with eyes closed). No matter, the food is excellent. I generally order from the Vietnamese side of the menu, sticking closely to the noodle bowls (I've found the Chinese platters on the other side of the menu decidedly so-so). The numbers 15 and 17 are personal favorites, and come out with thin rice noodles covered with shaved beef, cucumber, mint, carrot and and lettuce, all of it bathed in a light (lemongrass?) broth. The vegetables are fresh and crunchy and wonderful. Throw a little extra chili sauce and you've got the makings of a perfect summer lunch - even if they're open until 9pm every day but Sunday, when they're closed.

Chinese Wok Express
422 E Broadway
Columbia, MO 65201

(573) 443-5099

Mugs Up (or, "Wherein I commit heresy")

Mugs Up is older than the Heidelberg, Harpos and virtually every other Columbia dining spot (can anyone name one that's older?). They've been slinging their signature zips and chili dogs just off of Highway 40 (now Business Loop 70) since 1955. They are as true a Columbia institution as you can get. And here's where I get off track: the sloppy joe "burgers" at Mugs Up? They're really not my bag. And maybe I shouldn't say this, but the root beer tastes a little watery. To me. I know, the ghost of Raymond Kewley is going to visit me in my dreams shortly and open up a can, bigtime. It's just something I'm going to have to deal with.

No, the real reason I go to Mugs Up is for those chili cheese dogs. Sonic, with their absurd, soggy, warmed-over chili monstrosity, is a mess compared to Mugs Up's neat, snappy little dogs. They're fantastic, and I can't eat fewer than two. For those not in the know Mugs Up is behind the Family Table restaurant and across from Parkade Plaza on Business Loop 70. But time's running out to catch them this year; they'll close down for the winter in another month or two.

Mugs Up
603 Orange St.
Columbia, MO
(573) 443-7238

Columbia's Best: Taqueria El Rodeo

Ask five people in Columbia where to get the best Mexican food and you're likely to get five different answers - or more. This is a frequent thread over at the Tribune's food forum; a testament to the ferocity of feeling that comes with a discussion of Mexican food. And it's true, several offer one thing or another the others don't.

Chevy's is fun and the tortilla machine keeps the kids occupied, but it's a chain and expensive and (to me, at least) pretty tasteless. El Maguey is the favorite if you're in need of a greasy Tex-Mex fix. The asada tacos are fine, everything else is just okay and they've got a history of run-ins with the health department. El Rancho downtown is decent, Carlito's on Biz Loop has fantastic tacos and Tequila is reliably tasty as well. El Jimador and Rio Grande are disasters.

But to me there's only one place to go and that is Taqueria El Rodeo. Stepping through their door in the nondescript Nifong/Grindstone strip mall and you feel instantly transported. The predominant language is Spanish, the lunchtime clientele is comprised primarily of Mexican construction crews. But sit down, order an horchata or fruit-water (rotating daily) and relax.

Somehow the place manages to be transportative and homey at the same time. The effect may be a function of the dozens of times I've eaten there, but judging by the smiles on everyone's face, I don't think I'm alone. Tacos de carne asada come quickly with chopped steak, onions and cilantro, cradled in two warm corn tortillas. Huevos rancheros, enchiladas, fajitas and the cuban sandwich (no, it's not an authentic cubano, but still...) are all excellent. For the more adventurous there is spicy, toothsome menudo, tender, flavorful tongue tacos and numerous options not on the menu. Just ask. And be willing to experiment.

That said, there are days when the tacos seem a little ordinary - never bad, mind you, but less thrilling. And the salsa is pretty standard fare. But for good, authentic Mexican food in a lively, kid-friendly atmosphere you simply cannot beat Taqueria El Rodeo in Columbia.

Taqueria El Rodeo

805 E Nifong Blvd
Columbia, MO 65201

(573) 875-8048

Ground Rules

Blogs and message boards practically drag our most snide and passive-aggressive tendencies out of us. It doesn't have to be that way. We can engage in semi-anonymous banter without being jackasses. At least I think so. Passion and opinion is fine, but let's keep the personal attacks, backstabbing and vitriol where it belongs. The workplace.

Also, for the sake of brevity the following shortcuts and categories will be employed, liberally and throughout (along with lots of semicolons).

Columbia's Best: The tried and true, best places to eat in Columbia.

Off the Beaten Path: When I'm in the mood for something completely different. Like goat, for instance. Or McDonald's.

Cheap Eats: Places to grab good food on the cheap.