French winemakers abandon the cork

The Telegraph (UK) had an interesting piece the other day on the increasing willingness of French winemakers to switch to screw-off caps instead of corks. While I can't say I mind at all twisting the top off any bottle of wine I've ever purchased, the very thought of doing so with a Chateau Margaux is makes me dry heave.

"We started at the high end, because we are convinced that screw tops are perfect for fine wines that need to age, as they protect them better than cork from oxidation," said Gregory Patriat, in charge of bottling at Boisset. "We're not staying that corks are bad, it's just that screw tops are better," he said.

The bottom line is that screw-tops are better in every way save aesthetics. More than a third of all bottles produced in the world are already capped. My question is, what does this mean for the elaborate wine presentation ceremony? I don't mind the antiquated protocol (after all, the whole cork-verification thingy did serve a historical purpose), but it's part of what many Americans find intimidating about wine. The trimmed down version of the event will be a democratizing factor and help introduce more Americans to more wine. One can hope, no?

On force-feeding wine...and service with (too much of) a smile

The great crank Christopher Hitchens groused the other day in Slate about waiters barging into dinner conversations to grab the table's bottle of wine and pour - unbidden - each diner another glass. As Hitch himself notes at the end, there are bigger issues facing humanity. But in terms of dining and food service, this is a true annoyance.

The vile practice of butting in and pouring wine without being asked is the very height of the second kind of bad manners. Not only is it a breathtaking act of rudeness in itself, but it conveys a none-too-subtle and mercenary message: Hurry up and order another bottle. Indeed, so dulled have we become to the shame and disgrace of all this that I have actually seen waiters, having broken into the private conversation and emptied the flagon, ask insolently whether they should now bring another one. Again, imagine this same tactic being applied to the food.

Personally, I detest overly, well, personal service at least as much as a good wine-barge. "Hi, my name is Alex and I'll be your server tonight. Have you dined with us before? No? Super. Welcome. Let me tell you all about Bennigans McTurdenfood."

I've got news for you, pal. I don't want to know your name. I don't want an overeager server hovering about, waterboarding what I had hoped would be a nice, quiet conversation with my co-diner. I want professional, efficient, largely invisible service. For this we start the tipping at 20% and go up from there. If by the end of dinner you have faithfully kept water glasses full, delivered food quickly and with a minimum of drama, checked on how said food is more than zero times but less than two and brought the check promptly after requested...well you sir/madam will be looking at a repeat customer and a 30% tip.

Tapas in Kansas City

There's a relatively new tapas bar in downtown Kansas City Saturday night. One of the top meals I've had this year; simply phenomenal. It's called JP Wine Bar and Coffee House and they do flights of wine in addition to wonderful small plates of food.

We were with a big group; as a result we got to try nearly everything on the menu, probably ten different small plates. All but one (crab cakes, which were just okay) were wonderful. Coffee-crusted tenderloin, lamb chops served over lamb stew, salmon over beets, scallops...it was great.

Word has it that the former Otto's in downtown Columbia is set to become a tapas bar. If it is half as good as JP I'll be a happy and frequent customer.