Columbia's Best: KoJaBa

If someone can dream up a drearier location for a restaurant than Parkade Center's new Korean-Japanese hybrid KoJaBa, please let me know. The shiftless n'er-do-wells sitting on the sidewalk outside -- waiting for a MoX ride? -- stimulate a fight or flight response more than one's appetite. But those who brave the distressed exterior enter an oasis of calm, soothing walls, friendly service and Columbia's best Asian food, hands-down. For a restaurant to have achieved this level of excellence and refinement after having been open since November speaks to a steady hand in the kitchen and - one can hope - a bright future.

First, the missteps. No need to beat a dead horse again, but KoJaBa's location is phenomenally unappealing, and probably plays a role in misstep number two. Every single table in the small, bright interior has a gas stove attachment. It's in the middle of the table and as impossible to ignore as a vase of flowers would be. They wanted to offer diners the chance to grill their Korean bbq at their table in keeping with traditional cuisine. Problem is, nobody checked with the city and the lack of ventilation hoods over every table -- I've also heard the inability to serve raw meat, even if it is to be cooked, blamed for this -- means the hotplates must go unused. I doubt Parkade Center's management would be willing to retrofit the buildings to bring them into compliance.

Everything else is a wonder. Bracing Hite beers cleanse the palate following light vegetable tempura and pillowy, flavorful dumplings. As CoMo Whine and Diners noted recently, the menu is ambitious; but the waitress - an exceedingly pleasant and knowledgeable young woman - was eager to help. Asked about the $20 items listed under "appetizers," she explains that Koreans like to come in and share them over a few drinks before ordering entrees. She recommended the spicy squid to me and the bulgogi to Mrs. ShowMeEats. In minutes, out came five dishes of banchan (traditional side dishes bean sprouts, shredded radish, spiced cucumber, kimchi) and then the main courses.

The squid - topped with thin, delightful noodles - was extraordinary, a masterpiece of contrasts. Chewy and tender, spicy and sweet and sour. I had asked for something adventurous and had been expertly guided to a new favorite. The thin-sliced and marinaded steak was the best I've had. Thicker and more flavorful than Jina Yoo's (also very tasty) version, it quickly disappeared from Mrs. SME's plate.

Overfed and dizzied from the experience, we dropped about $60 for four beers, two appetizers and two entrees. We paid the bill and stepped out, blinking, into the evening sunlight, barely noticing the mire around us.

KoJaBa
601 Business Loop 70 W