Friday, August 1, 2008
Columbia's Best: Sutton's Community Market and BBQ
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I just had lunch at Sutton's and have the sauce on my pants to prove it (yes, really...feeling pretty good about myself here in my IT training on campus I can assure you). But it doesn't matter. I have just had the best bbq I've had in Columbia in a long time. It was at Sutton's. Even though it's just two blocks north of Broadway (and McBaine and Ash), I'd never seen it before. It would be easy to miss as there's no sign aside from the neon "open" in the window.
Inside the flapping screen door you feel like you've walked into someone's house. A movie plays on the tv/VCR and people sit chatting at a handful of small tables. Three giant black men were at one, laughing and welcoming friends coming through the door. It was comfortable, homey. I ordered the three meat platter (choosing pork, ribs and burnt ends), fried okra and greens and sat down with a book I'd brought. Good thing too, because nothing at Sutton's happens quickly.
Ten minutes in I was informed that they didn't have okra, pork or burnt ends. Turkey, beef and fries were subbed out. After another ten minutes I looked up from my book and realized that nobody else was eating. Strange, as it was now 12:15 pm.
Eventually, food escaped the kitchen; I instantly forgot my wait. The sliced brisket and turkey were amazing. Lightly smoked and tender, they each sported just a drizzle of tangy sauce. The ribs were hefty, with a nice bark and smoke ring. Flavorful but a hair on the tough side, they were the lesser of the three meats - though still very good. The greens - a combination of collard and turnip - were some of the best I've had. I tend to cook my greens for a shorter time and then throw in some vinegar and Tabasco. These put up no resistance and carried only the spice from the turnip greens. They were masterfully simple; delicious. The whole generous meal ran $15, but normal-sized portions are much cheaper.
All told, this was the best bbq I've had in Columbia, bar none. But plan ahead. Give yourself plenty of time and call ahead if you want to know what they smoked that day. They also sell their meats by the pound, and I will be slinging sandwiches with that turkey very soon. I still have a smile on my face (if also the red splash on my khakis).
Sutton's Community Market and BBQ
201 McBaine Ave
Columbia, MO
(573) 874-2227
Update: Sutton's is now technically "JR Barton's." Same family, different brother.
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3 comments:
Great! I've been wondering about this place for a long time, since it's been around a long time, I've just never made it there. Remember when they were on Broadway for awhile where Mazzio's Pizza was? Pres. Clinton even ate there! The building is long gone now. OK, will have to make sure we make it to this place on our list for good BBQ. Something you will NOT be finding at Plush Pig: we ate there last weekend and it was an abysmally salty experience! Bad, bad, bad, and they charge a lot, too! Won't be going back to Plush Pig, but will have to try Sutton Place now for sure.
I do indeed recall the Broadway location. Evidently the spot they're in now is the original; it's certainly got more character now.
Agreed on Plush Pig. One has to wonder if they're eating any of what they put out there. If they are, what explains the salt-lick element of their food?
Sad, I had hoped for better from them.
More on the Plush Pig. I see in the Missourian that Columbia's worst bbq is also it's dirtiest, sporting 7 critical and 6 noncritical health code violations. Way to go, guys!
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