Off the Beaten Path: Los Cuates

Acting on a tip from someone over at the Trib's food forum, I stopped in to Los Cuates today to try their tamales. Then I saw the "6 Tacos, 8 Dollars" option and forgot why I'd even come. Listed were azada, adovada, carnitas, cueritos, pollo, barbacoa and a couple of other choices. I'd never heard of cueritos before, but my waitress said they're like chicharrones (yes, some Spanish ability and prior exposure to authentic Mexican food would help at Los Cuates). Me? I just knew chicharrones had something to do with pork skins. Anyway, I ordered one of each of the options listed above and most were outstanding. Only the dried out pollo was truly lackluster. The side of refried beans were above average (not saying much, but still); rice, the pointless standard around here.

The tortillas seemed homemade, so I asked the waitress about it. In broken English and Spanish I determined (I think) that they are made in town but not actually at the restaurant.

The space seems designed to become a nightclub after dinner service, an awkward arrangement I've encountered in Mexican places as far flung as Birmingham, Alabama and northern Virginia before. It's also a meat market of sorts. Steaks, pork chops, etc. There was some thin-sliced pork (looked like prosciutto, actually) and lots of pig odds and ends marinating in vinegar. A guy was working the slicer while I ate, breaking down steaks into retailable portions. Nothing's labeled or priced, so they're not banking on the English-mostly-gringo crowd keeping them afloat. Oh well, something - along with the tamales I forgot about - to explore on a future visit (or maybe with my friend from Mexico).

Los Cuates

2908 Paris Road (beside Gerbes)

(573) 814-1545

Second location:

2517 Bernadette Dr.

(573-445-4364

Columbia's Best: Taqueria El Rodeo

Ask five people in Columbia where to get the best Mexican food and you're likely to get five different answers - or more. This is a frequent thread over at the Tribune's food forum; a testament to the ferocity of feeling that comes with a discussion of Mexican food. And it's true, several offer one thing or another the others don't.

Chevy's is fun and the tortilla machine keeps the kids occupied, but it's a chain and expensive and (to me, at least) pretty tasteless. El Maguey is the favorite if you're in need of a greasy Tex-Mex fix. The asada tacos are fine, everything else is just okay and they've got a history of run-ins with the health department. El Rancho downtown is decent, Carlito's on Biz Loop has fantastic tacos and Tequila is reliably tasty as well. El Jimador and Rio Grande are disasters.

But to me there's only one place to go and that is Taqueria El Rodeo. Stepping through their door in the nondescript Nifong/Grindstone strip mall and you feel instantly transported. The predominant language is Spanish, the lunchtime clientele is comprised primarily of Mexican construction crews. But sit down, order an horchata or fruit-water (rotating daily) and relax.

Somehow the place manages to be transportative and homey at the same time. The effect may be a function of the dozens of times I've eaten there, but judging by the smiles on everyone's face, I don't think I'm alone. Tacos de carne asada come quickly with chopped steak, onions and cilantro, cradled in two warm corn tortillas. Huevos rancheros, enchiladas, fajitas and the cuban sandwich (no, it's not an authentic cubano, but still...) are all excellent. For the more adventurous there is spicy, toothsome menudo, tender, flavorful tongue tacos and numerous options not on the menu. Just ask. And be willing to experiment.

That said, there are days when the tacos seem a little ordinary - never bad, mind you, but less thrilling. And the salsa is pretty standard fare. But for good, authentic Mexican food in a lively, kid-friendly atmosphere you simply cannot beat Taqueria El Rodeo in Columbia.

Taqueria El Rodeo

805 E Nifong Blvd
Columbia, MO 65201

(573) 875-8048