Ask five people in Columbia where to get the best Mexican food and you're likely to get five different answers - or more. This is a frequent thread over at the Tribune's food forum; a testament to the ferocity of feeling that comes with a discussion of Mexican food. And it's true, several offer one thing or another the others don't.
Chevy's is fun and the tortilla machine keeps the kids occupied, but it's a chain and expensive and (to me, at least) pretty tasteless. El Maguey is the favorite if you're in need of a greasy Tex-Mex fix. The asada tacos are fine, everything else is just okay and they've got a history of run-ins with the health department. El Rancho downtown is decent, Carlito's on Biz Loop has fantastic tacos and Tequila is reliably tasty as well. El Jimador and Rio Grande are disasters.
But to me there's only one place to go and that is Taqueria El Rodeo. Stepping through their door in the nondescript Nifong/Grindstone strip mall and you feel instantly transported. The predominant language is Spanish, the lunchtime clientele is comprised primarily of Mexican construction crews. But sit down, order an horchata or fruit-water (rotating daily) and relax.
Somehow the place manages to be transportative and homey at the same time. The effect may be a function of the dozens of times I've eaten there, but judging by the smiles on everyone's face, I don't think I'm alone. Tacos de carne asada come quickly with chopped steak, onions and cilantro, cradled in two warm corn tortillas. Huevos rancheros, enchiladas, fajitas and the cuban sandwich (no, it's not an authentic cubano, but still...) are all excellent. For the more adventurous there is spicy, toothsome menudo, tender, flavorful tongue tacos and numerous options not on the menu. Just ask. And be willing to experiment.
That said, there are days when the tacos seem a little ordinary - never bad, mind you, but less thrilling. And the salsa is pretty standard fare. But for good, authentic Mexican food in a lively, kid-friendly atmosphere you simply cannot beat Taqueria El Rodeo in Columbia.
Taqueria El Rodeo
805 E Nifong Blvd
Columbia, MO 65201
(573) 875-8048
Columbia, MO 65201
