Thursday, July 3, 2008

At Sycamore, it's always autumn


I should say at the outset that Sycamore is one of my favorite places to have dinner. One memorable meal months ago lingers with particular clarity. The bartender expertly matched wines with the numerous small plates we ordered. In between courses we chatted - it being a cold, wet Monday evening in February, the place was nearly deserted. The wine, food and company were delicious. Again, I really like Sycamore.

What bothers me is the refusal to change the menu...the paucity of anything new in general and anything spring or summer-y in particular. I mean really, their short ribs are great. But do you really want them in the heat of July? How about the bacon-wrapped, cabbage-stuffed duck breast with potatoes and braised greens? Sure, see ya in September.

To be sure, there is the occasional ode to the summer months. Gnocchi are tossed with sugar snap peas, asparagus and mushrooms. Trout chowder and beet salad would make for a fine summer meal. But all too often at Sycamore the tried and true wins out over the new and in-season.